I’m a history buff who has done most of my traveling in Europe and North America. I’m going to be spending a week in Buenos Aires in May. I’m a bit worried about the emphasis on night life and people-watching in most info I’ve seen online about the city. Nothing wrong with that, of course, it’s just not my thing. Beside history and culture, I’m a foodie, so that should be easy to satisfy in Bs.As! Can anyone recommend museums or tours that would be of interest?
I sure can! I studied there for a semester in college.
History to dip into ahead of time:
- Jose de San Martin
- The Dirty War, the Monteneros
Some great Borges stories featuring the city (and the outskirts):
- The Aleph
- Man on Pink Corner
- The Zahir
- Xul Solar museum
- Recoleta Cemetery
- Just about any parilla. The steak in BsAs really is all that and more, and you basically can’t go wrong. La Cabrera is always a hit, but you can feel confident going to any highly rated parilla that is near where you find yourself on a given day.
- Don’t forget gelato; it is everywhere and utterly amazing
- Don’t order all meat; the vegetables are also raised on the Pampa, and are as world-class as the beef!
- El Ateneo Grand Splendid
- San Telmo antique/flea market
- Go watch people tango at milonga
- La Bomba de Tiempo is a really excellent, long-running drum concert
Thanks lukert33, that’s a great list!
Hi, @Roxmachine ! Disclaimer, I’ve never been to Buenos Aires. On principle, I normally don’t make recommendations for places I’ve never been to, but I’m obsessed with the history of Peronsim, so I do feel like I could make a few suggestions that you might like. Be forewarned, this is Eva Peron-heavy!
Before you leave, I would recommend two very specific things: watching the film Eva no Duerme (Eva Doesn’t Sleep) and reading a biography on Eva Peron. The film is on Netflix, and it is ABSOLUTELY a work of art. It is an art house film starring Gael Garcia Bernal (sigh), and it follows the incredible TRUE story of Evita’s corpse after her death. (You can read a little about the history on Wikipedia.)It is a little morbid, but it does give a brilliantly-written and visually stunning overview of the socio-political situation in Argentina in the years after her death. As far as a biography, I’ve read Evita: The Real Life of Eva Peron and it was good. She also wrote an autobiography.
You could eat at Peron Peron– a bar that venerates Eva and Juan, where patrons still sing Peronist chants and Peronist propaganda lines the walls. Here’s some articles from Travel + Leisure and The Guardian.
I’m not sure how accessible it is, but you can try to visit theConfederación General del Trabajo (CGT) building. Tons of Peronist memorabilia, and still an active union headquarters. Evita’s old office is located here (and likely still on display?), and this was where her body laid in state for a few years.
You could visit Recoleta Cemetery, where Eva is buried, among many other Argentinian notables.
There is a museum dedicated to Evita you can visit; it has a lot of her old clothes and other memorabilia on display.
Juan is actually not buried with Evita; he is interred in a mausoleum at the Museo Historico 17 de Octubre, which you can visit if you feel like venturing to the outskirts of Buenos Aires. He has a wacky story behind his corpse, too. Originally buried in La Chacarita Cemetery, his tomb was desecrated in 1987, and his hands were cut off with a chainsaw and stolen. Some Peronist congressmen later received a ransom letter asking for $8 million for the return of his hands, but it was never posted, and his hands remain missing.
I also found this Culture Trip article with Evita-related places to visit.
I hope that this helps! I am so jealous, and hope to go someday soon. I’d love to know how it goes!